Caring For Your Chihuahua

Well, you have just returned from the breeders with your Chihuahua puppy. You sit down and start looking around for the owner's manual...What! no owner's manual?

Unfortunately your cute little puppy doesn't come with an owner's manual so you have to dig in and learn how to care for this charming creature.

So, until you get up to speed with the training program, this article will help you on your way.

Chihuahuas, are a good breed for small homes, apartments or city dwellers, after all they are very small dogs and are mainly house pets. You do not ever want to let them outdoors by themselves. They do not know they are tiny and will challenge the biggest dog on the block because they are also very protective.

Now, let's talk about their care and feeding.

You should consult your veterinarian about the nutritional needs of your puppy but after weaning (up to six weeks), puppies should be fed four small meals a day until three months old; from three months to six months they should be fed three meals a day and from six months to a year they should be fed twice a day. After one year, once a day is fine. Chihuahuas prefer several small meals as opposed to one big meal per day with regular adult dog food. Sometimes, canned food is difficult for this breed to digest, resulting in diarrhea.

Bathing your puppy should be done about once a month. Bathing too often may remove the natural oils from the coat and result in dandruff. Shampooing on occasion can actually enhance the sheen of the coat.

You must take care not to get water into their ears, as an infection can develop.

Technically speaking Chihuahuas remain puppies for about two years. This is the training period and you should try to train your puppy in it's feeding habits and potty habits. To paper train your puppy, just keep the puppy on paper as much as possible for the first two weeks they live with you. Then move their food and water just off the paper. Every time you see the pup start to have a bowel movement, just place them on the paper. He will soon learn what is expected of him.

Puppies and adults should have access to fresh clean water always during the day. The bowl should be scrubbed with very hot water but avoid using dish soap as the odor may cause them to shy away.

Trimming the puppies' nails should be a monthly event. You can use cat claw trimmers and it is best to start this nail-trimming routine early-on so that your dog becomes accustomed to the clipping of the nails and to the use of the trimmer.

Consult your veterinarian on the periodic cleaning of your Chi's ears and teeth, booster shots and vaccinations.

It is best to visit the vet after eight or nine weeks. Your puppy will probably need additional shots. You should bring the puppy's shot record that you received when you purchased the pup.

At this visit, they should either be wormed or given a fecal test for worms or other parasites. The worming is less hassle and expense than the test and will not harm your pup.

The vet may suggest that you brush your pets teeth. The small and toy breeds have more dental problems than the standard and larger breeds. Obviously the anatomy of the smaller breeds have left the teeth more crowded in the jaw and, with little space between the teeth, enables more harmful bacteria to remain in the mouth, hence the need for brushing.

Also, owners should be aware of the fact Chihuahuas are prone to weak knees. This problem may occur as they get older. If your Chihuahua has trouble walking, take them to the vet.

Try to stay with the same vet or treatment facility and keep good records. It is important for your pet's health.

You must remember that this is just an introductory part of your "owner's manual" to start you off on the right path to giving quality care to your puppy. You should learn more from books and other Chihuahua owners.

More importantly, your Chihuahua needs much tender loving care with human contact, touching, petting and general attention.

Chihuahuas are by nature gentle, loyal and sweet-tempered and they will give a lot of love and affection to you in return for your care. You will never be alone with a Chihuahua in your household.

Brushing the Dog

It is vital that the dog is groomed regularly for several reasons:
1. To avoid discomfort.
2. To help eliminate skin disorders.
3. To prevent infestation of parasites.
4. To stop smells developing.
5. To avoid extra charges at the Vets.
6. To remove loose hair, reducing amount floating around the house.

To achieve a tip-top coat condition and maintain a healthy pet, it is essential that the ears, eyes, coat, skin and anal area of the dog is checked regularly.

The first steps to grooming the dog:
1. Ensure you have a steady and non-slip worktop or table. A rubber bath mat placed on a firm table will do. Do not use a towel as this will slip and slide.
2. Make sure that the dog knows that this is the place where not to misbehave. Start if possible as a puppy with regular short sessions.
3. Make this an enjoyable and pleasurable experience (for both of you) but not a game.
4. The dog must learn through repetition, correction and praise. Do not smack the dog, use voice control.
5. Always reward the dog after a groom, either by treat or physical attention.
6. Take the dog outside to relieve itself before the groom begins and once the groom is completed.

The recommended frequency of grooming varies according to coat texture and length. Seek the advice of an experienced breeder or groomer. As a guide, every dog should be groomed at least once a week, many breeds three times!

Do's and Don'ts when brushing ALL types of coats:
1. Do not bath the dog before thoroughly brushing out, as this tightens any knots present, also shampoo will be difficult to rinse out.
2. Do start brushing from the back and work towards the front as this is less sensitive for the skin.
3. Do be systematic, so that you do not miss any areas.
4. Do always hold limbs at a natural angle, no matter how awkward the position a knot may be in.
5. Do remember that with most breeds there is the undercoat to brush too, not just the surface of the coat.
6. Do be firm, but do not smack. Praise once corrected and obeyed.

Techniques of Brushing:
With ling haired, dense and curly non-shedding hair, be aware that by brushing just on the surface of the coat does not prevent matting. There is hair all the way down to the skin that needs attention.

Begin at the bottom of the back leg, using your non-brushing hand, lift the hair up and slicker brush underneath, bit by bit gradually brushing hair down form where you are holding it. Remember that there are four sides to a leg, front, back, outside and inside. Having worked your way up the leg, start on the belly and use the same method on the body. Always check with a comb, after thoroughly brushing, to check for hidden knots.

Take care when brushing near the eyes, the pins of the brush can scratch the eyes and cause permanent damage, sometimes loss of sight. The hock and the belly are also sensitive areas when brushing. Special attention should be given to the Matt Zones- underarms, inside legs, behind ears and feathering on thick coated dogs.

Basic Tools for Grooming:
Smooth haired dogs will require a rubber brush to brush against the lie of the coat to loosen hairs. A bristle brush to remove dead skin and surface dirt and also stimulates circulation. A chamois cloth to polish the coat for added sheen.

Short coated dogs will require a slicker brush and a bristle brush. As will long silky coats, which will additionally require a comb to test for remaining knots.

Curly, non-shedding coats will require a pin brush and comb.

Internal Parasites of the Dog

Internal parasites (Endoparasite)can strike any dog, whether the dog appears to be clean and/or if it is from a seemingly 'well-to-do home'.

Roundworms (Toxocara canis, Toxascaris leonina)are rather like pale earthworms and can reach approximately 10cm in length. They are pointed at both ends. Signs of presence in a dog are: mild vomiting, pot-bellied, dull coat, either sudden weight gain or weight loss. A puppy might cough or hiccup. A presence of worms will be seen wrapped around the stools passed.

The Life Cycle of the Toxocara canis starts with the bitch eating contaminated feces. The larvae migrate to various parts of the body- mammary glands, uterus, and remain in the intestine. Puppies feed off the bitch and the larvae enter their system, growing into an adult within two weeks. The adult worms lay eggs which hatch into larvae and burrow through the gut wall to the liver and lungs, causing respiratory problems. Some lay dormant while others are coughed up and swallowed thus travelling down into the intestine where they grow into adult worms and lay thousands of eggs. These eggs are passed out of the dog where they lay waiting for a passer-by to eat the feces enabling the cycle to start over.

The Life Cycle of the Toxascaris leonina starts with the eggs being ingested, and hatching in the stomach. They do not migrate, but develop in the wall of the intestine, therefore infection to a bitch's puppies does not occur.

It is therefore advisable that pregnant bitches should be wormed under the vet's supervision, puppies should be routinely wormed after the age of two weeks. Adult dogs should be wormed every six months, every three months is wise if there are young children in the household.

Tapeworms (Dipylidium caninum) are flat, segmented and can be up to 50cm long. They are not normally seen as a complete worm, but the individual segments loaded with ripe eggs. Signs of presence in a dog, is that the abdomen may become distorted, but the most common sign is the presence of rice-like grains around the anus. These worms can also be seen moving in the dog's feces. They can cause diarrhea and poor growth development in puppies.

The Life Cycle of Dipylidium caninum starts when a dog swallows a flea, which has itself swallowed an embryonated worm. The larvae develop into adult worms in the small intestine. Specific worming remedies for this type of worm are obtained from a vet. Also ensure that the dog is regularly checked for fleas.

Ticks (Ixodes species) are brownish-white and can be initially mistaken for a wart, but on closer inspection the legs can be seen, while the head is buried in the epidermis. Having gorged on the dog's blood it grows to the size of a bean or pea. Signs of presence may only be when a dog has an allergic reaction to them and due to scratching, red sore areas appear. Normally a dog will tolerate one or two ticks without showing any signs of irritation and they will only be noticed during grooming.

The Life Cycle of Ixodes species starts with adult ticks laying eggs which drop on the ground. Larvae hatch and climb on to blades of grass, shrubs, etc., where they wait for a passer by to brush past, thus enabling them to attach themselves on to the hair of the dog. Surgical spirit soaked onto the tick suffocates it, thus loosening its grip. It can then be removed with tweezers. Never attempt to pull the tick off without soaking it first, as the head will remain and cause infection. Treat the area with insecticide. A special dip/shampoo can be obtained from the vet if infestation is severe.

Dog Ear Infections

Dog ear infections are also commonly called Otitis Externa. It is an infection of the outer ear canal. There are three parts to the ear; the outer, the middle, and the inner ear. Ninety percent of infections occur in the outer ear, the part of the ear that you can see.

Dogs are prone to ear infections because of the anatomy of their ears. They have a horizontal and a vertical component to them, so it is hard for anything in there to drain out, like water or debris.

Signs of an ear infection include excessive head shaking, yellow to brown exudate in the ears, or a yeast like smell. Additional signs of ear infections include redness and swelling.

There are several causes of ear infections. The most common cause of ear infections are due to allergies. Some dogs are more prone to allergies than others; therefore they get more ear infections.

Another common cause is sporting dogs that swim. They get water inside their ears, and provided their difficult anatomy, the water in the ears cannot drain out. Therefore, this provides the perfect environment for bacteria and yeast to grow. It is recommenced that if you let your dog play in the water you dry your dog's ears thoroughly afterwards.

If your dog does have an ear infection it is important to properly clean your dog's ears before applying any medication.

To clean your dog's ears, start by placing a few drops of an ear cleanser into the ear and massage the ear to help loosen any debris that is in the ear. Then use a cloth or cotton gauze to whip the dirt out.

After your dog's ears are thoroughly clean, then you can apply your medication. Follow your veterinarian's advice about how much medication to apply to the ear, usually a few drops.

The treatment your veterinarian will prescribe will vary depending on the cause of the ear infection. For yeast infections they prescribe anti-fungals, for bacterial infections they will prescribe antibiotics. Normally treatment is applied directly into the ears, but in severe cases systemic treatment may be needed. This usually means have to give your dog pills orally.

In some dogs with severe ear problems, the veterinarian will usually clip the hair around the ear to help let more air into the ear. In extreme cases your veterinarian may recommend surgery to reconstruct the ear canal to let it drain easier.

Breeds of dogs that are prone to ear infections include all breeds with large ears that flap over the ear canal, and breeds of dogs that have a very small canal. By knowing what to look for, you can detect ear infections early.

Teach Your Child to be Safe with a Puppy

It has been said that a dog is 'man's best friend' and that a well trained dog can provide much love, fun, and security, but at the end of the day this same dog is an animal, one that can be dangerous inflicting serious injuries and even causing death. It is therefore vital that just as at an early age a puppy is trained, so must children be educated in the correct ways of dealing with a canine, and that always, when a child and dog are 'loose' together that they are under adult supervision.

Children must always understand that a dog, especially a puppy, is not a toy, a doll or teddy bear. Children love being cuddled and hugged, kissed and carried around but they also know that at times they can become grumpy and irritable when adults fuss them too much. Well a dog is exactly the same they do not want to be disturbed when eating or resting or sleeping but they cannot say 'go away' or cry, they get grumpy and may snap at the offender.

Adults must be aware that young children may unwittingly encourage puppies to chase them often leading to play biting, the puppy sees the child as one of its own and in the excitement of play an injury can occur, so therefore always adult supervision. However older children and even adults can be guilty of over-stimulating an excitable puppy one minute and then telling it off for the same thing a minute later and even worse hitting it the next! Adults should avoid and definitely should not let children play aggressive rough games with any puppy as this may result in a dog with aggression and behavior problems later on. Likewise taunting or making a puppy jealous can have serious implications in an adult dog, which remembering its puppy days can misjudge a situation and react in the wrong way.

Children should be encouraged to ignore a puppy unless it comes to them for attention. If they want to play with the dog, it should, by name, be invited to go to them. Just as humans dislike close face-to-face interaction so do puppies so again children must learn not to push their faces into the dogs, or risk a painful nip! Children should also be encouraged to put their toys, clothes, shoes etc. out of the reach of a puppy, preventing the temptation for the puppy to claim items as it's own; this solves two possible problems, a child trying to pull away items from a dog and also the possibility of pup swallowing an item leading to a painful (for the dog and the adults purse) trip to a vets.

The most important lesson though is to teach respect for a living animal. Children must understand the need to give a dog space, let them have quiet time and then when together to be quiet and gentle with one another. The same rules really apply with children's interaction with one another. Living with dogs will enrich their lives as long as they learn to understand canine language. Caring for dogs encourages responsibility and develops empathy; there are so many positives providing a responsible adult has trained the dog and the child in the correct ways of living together.

The Happy Puppy Owner's Guide to Housetraining Your Puppy

Dogs are probably the only animals in the world who love unconditionally, with their whole heart and body and soul. There are many stories of dogs saving the lives of their humans, of warning people of danger or of seeming to know when an owner is sick or in pain.

If you've decided to get a puppy, or you've recently brought one home, congratulations! You will have a loyal friend and companion who will enjoy your company, never be too tired to go for a walk with you, and who will always be on your side, no matter what!

One note of caution though. A dog is only as well-trained as he has been taught to be by his owner. It is important that your puppy understands as quickly as possible what is considered acceptable behavior and what is not in your home.

You need to decide early if you will allow your puppy to get on your furniture, where he can sleep, and what he can chew on.

So housetraining your dog now, while your dog is still a puppy is the best way to assure that she/he is a welcome and happy member of your household.

The crate method is one of the fastest and most humane methods of housetraining your puppy.

But, first, here are some do's and don'ts for housetraining your puppy:

DO'S:
Do be assessable to your puppy. If you're going to be gone for long periods of time during the training period, then do not give the puppy full access to your house. Put him in an area where you've prepared for accidents.

Do limit the amount of food and water your puppy has throughout the day. (If it's hot outside, make sure your puppy has enough water to drink, but remember that what goes in, will come out!

Do praise your puppy every time he/she does what you expect him/her to do. Your puppy wants to please you, and he/she needs to learn what behaviors create praise from you.

Do be consistent. You will only confuse your puppy otherwise.

Do be realistic. Your puppy may not be capable of being completely housetrained until he is at least six months old.

DONT'S:
Don't reprimand your puppy when he has an accident. It's going to happen, and if it does, it means that you didn't get him outside in time. Just clean it up and move on.

Don't use the crate as a means of locking your puppy up for long periods of time, or as a punishment.

Don't let your puppy go to the bathroom anywhere except his/her designated area while you are training him/her.

Why the crate method works: Dogs are naturally fastidious animals and they don't like to eliminate where they sleep or eat. Therefore, if your puppy sleeps in the crate, she/he will not use the crate as a bathroom.

First things first:

Puppies need to urinate shortly after they eat, drink, play, chew, run or walk. Depending on the breed, size, temperament and age of your puppy, this can be within 15 to 30 minutes.

1. Keep a record of the times your puppy needs to go for a couple of days. This will help you to learn his natural schedule, and make the training process easier.

2. Plan your "walking" schedule around your puppy's needs. From the time your puppy is about 10 or 11 weeks to six months old, he/she should be walked between 5 and 10 times a day. Once your puppy is between six months and 11 months old, this will drop to around 4 to 6 times a day. And when he/she is an adult, walking your dog three to four times a day will be sufficient.

3. Especially after your puppy has spent the night in his/her crate, do not return from your morning walk until he/she has eliminated. (If for some reason you do have to return, put your puppy in his/her crate, and then take him/her out every fifteen minutes or so, until he/she goes.) Make sure you give your puppy lots of praise and affection, once he/she has done what you wanted.

What the crate means for your puppy:

A crate is your puppy's home away from home, his/her sanctuary in times of stress and his "bedroom" at night.

Make sure that your puppy associates his/her crate with positive feelings. Put his/her favorite blanket, chew toys and treats inside the crate. When helping your puppy get used to the crate, leave the door open until your puppy shows no sign of fear of the crate.

The more comfortable your puppy is inside the crate, the less likely he/she will be of soiling it.

Never let your puppy out of the crate for bad behavior such as barking, whining or scratching.

How To Get Started:
1. Establish a regular schedule of feeding and going outdoors.
2. Put the puppy in the crate at night, but make sure you take him/her out first thing in the morning and don't go back in the house until the puppy has finished.
3. After the puppy has gone, bring him/her in, and let him play for an hour or so. (Remember not to give your puppy complete run of the house until he is completely housetrained.)
4. Feed the puppy.
5. Using the chart you created, take the puppy outside within 15 minutes of the time you know he/she is going to need to go. Don't come back in until the puppy has gone.
6. Bring the puppy in and let him/her play.
7. Put the puppy in his/her crate for a nap.

Repeat this schedule throughout the day.

Yes, this is a lot of work. But the method is effective, it works quickly, and your puppy will soon become housebroken, and as he/she gets older, your puppy will let you know when he/she needs to go. In the meantime, you'll be able to have complete confidence in your puppy!

How To Stop a Puppy Jumping Up

The main reason you're likely to have a problem with a puppy jumping up you is that you actively encourage it yourself!

Go on, admit it, it gives you a lovely, warm feeling when your new puppy excitedly jumps up and makes a fuss of you, doesn't it?

And what do you do in return? That's right, you make a fuss of him right back, don't you?

The signal you give him by doing this is that he's pleasing you and winning your approval. And you'll perhaps not be surprised to learn that this is exactly what your puppy is looking for and just reinforces the behavior.

Pushing him off isn't an answer, because he'll see this as a game. Remember, play fighting is a part of a puppy's natural instinct and learning process.

Shouting at him isn't an answer, because he interprets that as getting attention, and that's just what he wants.

What you really need to be doing to break the jumping up habit is the exact opposite of what you actually are doing.

That's right. Ignore your puppy. Completely ignore him. Pay him no attention whatsoever. Yes, I know it's hard but it's the only way you'll ultimately break this antisocial habit.

Ignoring him means no verbal interaction (don't talk to him) and no touching. Turn you back on him and fold your arms to keep them out of his reach.

If your puppy jumps at your back, take a step away from him. If he comes around the front of you, turn your back on him again.

To repeat: don't give him any acknowledgement whilst he is jumping up at you.

As soon as he gets down on all fours and stops jumping at you, go down to his level, make a fuss of him and give him a tidbit.

In other words, reward him for doing what you want him to do, and give him nothing he can construe as a reward when he's doing what you DON'T want him to do.

So, to sum up, you want him to understand that four feet on the ground is what will get your attention, two feet on you will not.

It's also important to make sure that any visitors to your house also understand this drill.

It may seem an impossible task now, but if you're consistent with the above exercise, you'll be pleasantly surprised at how quickly your puppy gets the message that remaining on the floor is what will get attention.

How To Potty Train Your New Puppy

Many questions arise when you bring your new puppy home.

Such as....
How do you potty train your puppy?
What can you do about your puppy when you are at work?
Are there steps to follow when potty training your puppy?

Keep in mind that raising a new puppy is a lot like raising a child. It is a lot of work, they keep you up at night, they get into things and make messes, but your new baby (puppy) also gives you a lot of joy and love.

Potty training puppies is not that hard.

Here are some proven steps to potty train your new puppy:

1) Purchase a play pen or kennel.

2) Line the kennel or play pen with newspaper or puppy pads.
In the play pen there is room for newspaper on one side and bedding on the other. If you use a kennel it is a little smaller and your puppy may have a few accidents at first. Generally dogs do not potty where they sleep but when they are very young they just can't hold it for long.

NOTE: Using a play pen is such a great way to potty train your puppy. The play pen is also great for when you are unable to give your puppy undivided attention. You can place your puppy in the play pen and it is a safe place for them to play and not get hurt or get into anything.

3) Keep your puppy in the play pen or kennel when not attended or when you are not at home.

4) Within 30 minutes of feeding your puppy make sure there is newspaper or puppy pads accessible for your puppy to go on.

5) If you catch your puppy in the act - place your puppy immediately on the newspaper or pads so they can finish there.

6) Do not hit your puppy. They do not respond to cruelty. Instead reward your puppy with treats whenever they go potty properly on the paper or pads.

7) As soon as your puppy has received its third set of shots you can begin putting them outside to go potty. You can move the newspaper outside to help them get used to going outside.

8)After a while (usually 4-6 months) they will get trained to go outside.

9) The end result will be that you will get a well trained well behaved puppy and a happy owner too!

The first week of potty training your new puppy may be a little trying at times but you have to remember this is a commitment to a life long friend and your new puppy is getting used to his or her new family.

You really want to be consistent in your training of your puppy. Your puppy will be more easily trained if you follow a routine -- otherwise you will confuse your puppy, cause your puppy to have more accidents and have a much harder time with potty training.

Putting time into your puppy at the beginning of its life will pay big dividends in good behavior later.

What People Need to Know About Dog Behavior

As the old adage goes, “Dogs are man’s best friend.” However, there are times when people just can’t understand why their beloved dogs behave in a different manner. Hence, it is extremely important to know the underlying reasons why dogs sometimes behave differently.

You can teach your dog appropriate behavior. Experts say that dog behaviors can be controlled through proper training.

Dog behaviors are actually responses that are mostly triggered by environmental and social factors. Hence, to control these responses, the owner should teach his dogs the proper way to respond to such elements. Let’s explore a few of the methods:

Dog Bite

Statistics show that almost 5 million people in the U.S. are victims of dog bites annually. This is almost 2% of the total population in the U.S. What’s more, dog bites cases rank as second most common cause of emergencies in the hospitals.

So, the question is: Why dogs bite?

According to the experts, the main reasons why dogs may bite are the following:

1. Excitement

When somebody plays with his or her dog, the tendency of the dog is to get excited, and because dogs don’t have hands to use when playing, they use their mouth to grasp things. When this happens, there is the tendency that the dog might accidentally hurt people without intending to do anything harmful.

2. Protection

Dogs can be very possessive, so, whenever he wants to protect something that he owns, he will bite whoever threatens to take it away from him. Hence, when people get near the dog’s property, the dog’s tendency is to bite to make the person leave his property alone.

3. Pain

When the dog is not feeling well, he does not understand why he is feeling that way. Therefore, when a person, even if it’s his master, touches him, he may think that it’s the person who causes the pain and so his tendency is to fight back by biting.

4. Fear

Dogs are sometimes afraid just like humans. That is why when somebody startles him, the dog’s only known protection for itself is to bite back.

The best thing is to avoid these situations and leave the dog alone. The problem with so many people is that they want to always play around with their dog without learning how and when the dogs should be left alone.

Like humans, dogs have feelings too. When these feelings are all mixed up, their only known protection for themselves is to bite because they cannot understand the situation logically. Therefore, people should know that in order to avoid such circumstances.

Testing a Puppy's Personality

WHAT IS PUPPY TESTING?

Just as with humans, every dog has it's own personality. For dogs this can already be determined at a very young age. The object of a puppy test is to determine what kind of personality the dog has. Knowing this allows you to train your dog more effectively.

Some believe that a puppy test allows you to pick the perfect dog. This is nonsense. It allows you to pick a puppy which is mentally stable and has an easy-to-work-with personality. Plus from experience we can say that dog training is 70% the owners experience and mentality and only 30% that of the dog.

CONDITIONS FOR A PUPPY TEST

It's important that the test is preformed in a neutral room or space where the dog hasn't been before and where there is no external distraction for the dog.

The optimal age for the test to be performed is when the puppy is 5 to 7 weeks old. At this point the personality is already set but they are not yet fully attached to humans yet.

The person performing the test should also be someone who the puppies haven't met before as some parts of the test would give untrustworthy results otherwise.

THE ACTUAL TEST

The test described below is the well known Campbell test. This is however not the only existing test, several others exist.

With this test, the puppies are scored on 5 criteria:

* Social attraction

* Facility to follow

* Response to obligation

* Social domination

* Acceptance to be lifted

For the social attraction, the testing person sits a few feet from the puppy and observes how the dog reacts: Does it come? If it comes, is the tail carried high or low? Does he scout his surroundings? Does he run the other way?

When testing the facility to follow, the tester will put the puppy next to him an walk a little. Then see if the dog follows or not? Does he follow and jump up at the test person and even try to bit his ankles? Does he follow from a distance? Does he rather wander off on his own?

The response to obligation test entails that the puppy is put on his back and held down on the ground by placing a flat hand on his chest. Does the puppy protest heavily and tries to bite the hands of the testing person? Does he initially protest but calm down later? Does he remain quiet or does he try to lick hands?

With the social domination test, the tester will sit down next to the puppy and just stroke him. Here we'll observe that some puppies will try to crawl upon the test person others will try to bite their hands or lie on their back and lick hands. Some will even run away.

For the final test the puppy is lifted from the ground supported only at his chest (this way the puppy doesn't see the test person). Does he struggle and try to bite hands? Does he initially struggle but calms down after a while? Does he remain calm and perhaps even try to lick the hands?

The combination of results lets you determine what personality the dog has. For novice dog owner it's best to pick a puppy that hasn't got an extreme test result because those are either very dominant or extremely submissive and will require a handler who is experienced.

Basic Principles in a Dog Lovers Club

There are lots of dog lovers clubs in the US that offer a lot more for both the dog lovers and their dogs. Here are some of them.

The American Kennel Club has a dog lovers section called “For the Love of the Purebred Dog”. This article is more than a canine purebred section. It is dedicated to living at home with dogs. This dog club gives informative and educational materials pertaining to pet care, training, nutrition and a lot more. It also includes funny stories, art, pet history and the more popular Companion Animal Recovery method. There are also more popular sites like the dog breeds and events page.

The American Mixed Breed Obedience Registration or (AMBOR) on the other hand was created in 1983 with the objective of taking into accounts the perseverance and accolades in obedience contests of mix breed dogs and handlers. This dog lovers club also gives support and inspiration to dog handlers.

Important Information for Members:

1. Mixed-breeds

Unlimited full membership is open to handlers and owners of mixed-breed dogs as long as the pet is spayed and nails are cut. There should be front and side photo shots of the dog that will be included in the application. This is the ticket to all the obedience and agility programs, automatic tabulation in the agility and obedience nationwide ranking system. This also includes a given eligibility for the annual awards.

This achievement will be given honor in AMBOR highlights (AMBOR’S newsletter) and on the website. The member will be eligible to any agility and obedience national competition in the future. Dogs with assigned numbers are marked as purebred and should be enlisted as a purebred. Also, dogs that are listed as mixed-breeds that are given a number based on the owner’s application causes its membership to be changed to a status of a purebred.

2. Purebreds

Purebred dogs can be listed with AMBOR with a rule that entry is limited to the AMBOR-supported agility program. All dogs that are purebred, listed with AMBOR and exhibits AMBOR-supported programs on agility will have competition points monitored and there will be an automatic issuance of certificates.

Dogs that are purebred and listed with AMBOR are not qualified to be a part of the agility and obedience scoring systems. They will also not be included in the website on highlights and not qualified for any mixed-breeds national competition in the future.

Handlers that register to the AMBOR-supported trials on agility should put their AMBOR number on the form at the club’s entrance so that competition points will be monitored.

Dogs during Labor

Breeding dogs is an exciting experience. From the time a proper mate is found to the point that the puppies are born, it is crucial to take careful steps to make this successful.

Professional breeders do not breed frequently and will only do so when a pair is found to be healthy that will ensure the birth of healthy offspring.

The ideal breeder should have the pair of dogs tested for every possible disease as well as have all the information regarding the pair’s ancestors and health records on file. Should a breeder find no problem in the history of the pair, then the process can begin.

Dogs normally come into heat twice a year which is every six months. Larger dogs can come into heat every eight or ten months which usually lasts about three weeks. Vaginal bleeding is a sure sign that the dog is in heat as well as swelling in the vulva. A dog's pregnancy or gestation period lasts between 60 to 67 days. Most dogs give birth after 63 days.

The only way to determine the stage of the dog’s pregnancy is by keeping track of time from the day of the breeding. Keeping a record of this on file is advisable for reference purposes.

Exactly three weeks after breeding, the mother must be examined to confirm the pregnancy.

The dog must be given a formulated and premium brand of dog food for the duration of the pregnancy and throughout the nursing period preferably with a strong nutritional foundation.

During pregnancy, the mother's food consumption will almost double compared to the pre-pregnancy level so increased feeding must be given to ensure that there is enough for both the mother and the puppies.

Behavioral changes are to be expected during this time. The dog will demand far more affection or may experience a few days of vomiting.

Later on, the expectant mother will search for a secure place to deliver the puppies. Ensure that a proper place is ready when the time comes. An ideal place for an expecting mother is a box. Depending on the size of the dog, it must be spacious enough for the dog to move around and must have layers of newspaper inside it that will absorb birthing fluids. This should also have low sides for the mother to look outside and for the breeder to easily check if assistance is needed to make it easy to remove soiled papers without interrupting the mother and the newborn puppies.

Follow these steps and you should be able to count on a happy birthing process!